A DeLorean front-on under blue studio light on the blacked-out stage
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Guide

Lighting a car in a studio

Car paint is a mirror. You are never lighting the car; you are lighting whatever the car reflects. Once that clicks, studio car photography stops being mysterious.

The one idea

Point a light at a car and you get a hot spot the size of the lamp. Point a light at a big white surface and let the car reflect that, and you get a long, clean gradient down the flank. Every studio car shot you admire is built from controlled reflections of large, soft, shaped sources, and the cove is the largest soft source in the room.

Clean white: the cove is the softbox

  • Light the cove, not the car. The sixteen 500W floods on the sweep bring the wall and floor up to white. The car's roof and bonnet reflect the lit ceiling area of the sweep; the flanks reflect the walls. Move the car forward or back and the reflections move with it.
  • Add one big overhead source. A large diffused source above the car (from the grid, 4.5m up) gives the highlight along the shoulder line that makes a car look expensive. Its edge, not its centre, does the work: the gradient from highlight to shadow is the shape of the car.
  • Kill what you do not want reflected. Black flags and polyboards on C-stands take the studio, the crew and the camera out of the paint. On a dark car this is most of the job.
  • Wheels and grilles last. A small hard source (a 1.2kW fresnel with barn doors) picks out spokes and badges after the body is right.

The night look: black box

Draw the curtain track and the cove becomes a black stage. Now nothing is reflected unless you put it there, which is why night-look car work is easier in a black box than a white one. Long strip sources on stands or from the grid draw single clean lines down the bodywork; the six Arri L3-C LEDs colour them without gels. Haze in the room turns backlight into beams, as in the DeLorean shoot.

Practical order for a car day

  1. Floor protection down, car in, positioned and cleaned. Fingerprints and dust show at studio light levels.
  2. Cove up to white first (or blackout drawn). Read the background before touching a subject lamp.
  3. Overhead soft source in, camera position fixed, then flag the reflections you do not want.
  4. Detail lights for wheels, lamps and badges.
  5. Store the look on the desk. With 42 channels of dimming a second look is a cue, not a re-rig.

Why it goes wrong

Three things, in order of frequency: the background was not lit separately, so the car sits on grey; the sources were too small, so the paint shows a dozen hot spots instead of a gradient; and nobody flagged the crew out of the reflections, so there is a photographer standing in the door panel. All three are cheaper to fix on the day than in post.

If you would rather book the lighting with the room, our gaffers know this grid because they hung it. Stage from £295+VAT a half day.

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Questions we get asked

What is the best way to light a car in a studio?

Light large surfaces for the car to reflect, not the car itself. On a cove that means bringing the wall and floor up to white, adding one big soft overhead source, and flagging out everything you do not want in the paint.

Can you do a night look for a car?

Yes. The curtain track blacks the cove out completely, then strip sources and six Arri L3-C colour LEDs draw clean lines on the bodywork.

Do I need a gaffer for a car shoot?

Most vehicle days book one. Reflective paint rewards someone who lights it every week, and the crew rate is from £450+VAT a day.

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